8/7/01

Europe 2001: Can't We Just Leave France? Please?

We awoke kind of late, but we needed the sleep.  We had a lot that we wanted to cover today, but as we were mentally scarred from our last hotel experience, we took all of our bags with us instead of leaving them.  This meant that Amber still had her one backpack, but I had a big and very bulky duffle wrapped around my shoulders so that it hung at my belly, and then I was carrying a backpack.  First thing, we went to the Pere-Lachaise Cemetery and wandered around all morning.  It was a very peaceful and beautiful cemetery.  Everywhere you looked there were rows upon rows of tombs, like little houses.  Most were covered with delicate green moss and ivy.  It was very hard for me to leave.




 We “got in line” to see the Musee d'Orsay.  We were in line for 1 1/2 hours, in the rain, with all of our luggage.  Good thing the wait was worth it.  I saw some really awesome Monets and Van Gohs and works by my favorite impressionist, Degas.  I thought it was interesting how the ceiling of the museum was carved in the same fashion as the underside of the Arc de Triumph.  My favorite part of the museum was gallery that featured architecture of the Opera House.  There was a really big to-scale model of a cross-sectional view of the building, which I spent too much time just staring and peering at.  When we were done at the museum it was getting late, but all I cared about seeing was Notre Dame Cathedral, so we went.  Oh, it was everything that I had expected!  It is one of my favorite buildings in the world.  I loved the architecture so much!  I lost Amber.  I had last seen her over by the altar, and then they turned down the lights for mass.  I went outside.  No Amber.  The weather was brutal.  I went back inside and stood in one place, so if she were looking for me, she would find me.  Ten minutes later, still no Amber.  I figured that she must be doing the same thing, so I went in search of her.  I found her sitting in one of the pews, waiting for me.  I sat next to her and we listened to the organs play.  It was really eerie, sad, and somber music.  Beautiful.

After we left, we knew what was coming:  Our overnight train to Milan.  Amber had lost her train pass with her luggage and needed a new one.  In addition she needed a couchette reservation for tonight’s train.  Luckily all the other reservations for our trip were in my name and I still had the papers.

It was raining.  A perfect setting for the events that would unfold.  We went to the nearest metro and bought more tickets.  We got to Paris-Bercy station.  We were told that in order for Amber to get a new train pass, she would have to go to Gare de Lyon station.  As we were leaving, I lost my balance and fell down a flight of stairs and into a puddle with all of my luggage about my neck.  When we got to Gare de Lyon station we were told that ticket counters were closed.  After several minutes of Amber trying to explain her situation to the ticket seller (in French), I pressed my rail pass up to the glass and asked if Amber could purchase one.  Yes.  Thank God.  But we were going to have to get the couchette reservation at Paris-Bercy.  Fine.  Amber bought a new rail pass and we left.  Amber, bent on not taking another Paris metro, since we had been having bad luck with them all day, decided we would take a taxi.  After failing to hail one, we walked.  I was freaking out because I didn't know where we were, and up until this point Amber had been relying on me for navigation.

To add insult to injury, in my distress I kicked right through a pile of dog shit on the sidewalk.  Amber began to laugh.  I wanted to cry.  I kicked my boot through a puddle and continued walking.  Somehow, we made it back to Paris-Bercy.  We were told that Amber would have to buy the reservation from the conductor.  I was nastily screamed at by a conductor for not knowing what compartment to be in.  We climbed into our bunks and I slumped down after kicking off my shoes.  A creepy sort of man go into the bunk opposite and upper.  An Italian man hung out outside, he would be bunking across from me.  The evil conductor came in to collect passports, tickets, and reservations.  Amber tried to explain that she needed a new reservation -"No, must have reservation," he interrupted.  Amber was hauled away to another car.  Not knowing what to do, I curled up in my bunk with the thought that at least we were guaranteed to arrive in Milan on the same train.  The Italian, who was now in his bunk, I could see out of the corner of my eye, was staring at me.  "Oh, great," I thought.

"Excuse me," he said.  I turned around.  He continued to speak in broken English, but what he basically said was that he was going to see his friend a few cars over soon and he would try to trade places with Amber if it were possible.  I told him that he was very kind but that I was just thankful that we were on the same train and that we had been through a rough time.  Fifteen minutes later, the compartment door flew open and there stood Amber and the conductor.  She had been forced to buy a first class reservation because second class was filled up, but she told the conductor that she had the last empty couchette, so he let her come back.  After we settled down thankfully I fell asleep.

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