8/4/01

Europe 2001: The Tower

After we saw our roommates off the day began at the Tower of London.   It was so cool!  We had a really fun and entertaining tour guide (Beefeater / Yeoman Warder).  After a briefing of what all the buildings and towers were all about and a little history lesson, we were left to explore on our own.  I got my picture taken with two of the huge resident ravens at the tower.  They were really beautiful and an important part of the site’s history and superstition.  According to our brochure: “Charles II was warned that should the Ravens leave the Tower, the monarchy would fall, and he therefore ordered that henceforth a small population should always remain.”  Just in case, six ravens are kept at the tower in their own cages, with food, and toys.  Their wings are clipped, so they are allowed to roam the grounds.  We saw the crown jewels.  I think that my favorite was Victoria’s small crown, just because it was so intricate for its size.  Our next stop was to the top of the south wall, where I took a panoramic series of photos.  We left the tower and went down to the riverbank for sandwiches while we browsed a gift shop.

 Oh, silly tourists


A raven curiously looking down at me

Panorama inside the main courtyard, White Tower shown

Next, we went to Westminster Abbey.  The sheer size was almost overwhelming as I gazed up at the spires that blocked out the sun at high noon.  There were the usual Gothic-Revival features: Gargoyles, stained glass, niche statues, etc.  Notably, there were memorials for Shakespeare, the Bronte Sisters, and many of the Royal Family members.  Before we got to do very much exploring, however, Amber suddenly had to use the bathroom.  We soon found out that even though Westminster Abbey is a big and popular tourist attraction, there are no public toilets.  While we paused in our search, the wall we were standing next too suddenly opened and a small priest emerged, carrying a large iron ring full of old-fashioned keys.
        “Can I help you?”
        “I need a bathroom.” Amber replied.
        “Oh,” the priest said rather quickly, “If you would just follow the hall down to the end, turn right, and tell the man in red that you’ll be back but that you are just going to use the restroom - because there is are none in the building - you’ll have to go across the street.”

We thanked him and slightly bemused, we began to make our way to where we thought the priest had pointed us.  He ushered us to another helpful man.  Amber thanked him while I was giggling at how helpful the priest had been to make absolutely certain that Amber made it to the loo.  Upon return we were able to inspect the chapels and nave more closely.  We found the tomb of Elizabeth I and her sister Mary.  The step leading to their enclosure had been trod on by so many centuries of visitors that the stone was worn down several inches.  


 We were supposed to go to Westminster Cathedral next, but I was worried that we’d miss the London Butterfly House, so we got aboard our subway train and went to Gunnersbury station.

After some helpful directions from a nice lady who knew more about London than the information center guy, we climbed aboard our first double-decker bus.  After a premature stop and bus change, we finally made it to Syon Park.  The Butterfly House was amazing.  There is a green house type of building, where there are trees, ponds, and fragrant flowers.  The building is 78-degrees F and 80% humidity.  As pretty as they were, the hundreds to thousands of butterflies were a little disturbing at first, because they tend to fly right at your face.


Later, we took the double-decker bus back to our tube station.  This time, we sat on the top.  It was pretty fun, but it always seemed as though we were going to smash the car in front of us every time we stopped because of the perspective.  When we got to our tube, we went to the Piccadilly Circus area of London to eat dinner, or so I thought.  Amber’s determination to find well-rated nosh (according to her guide book) dragged me through heavy downpour for about an hour before I lost my patience and asked whether she wanted to eat or go on a walk.  I have a tendency to get very cranky when I’m hungry.  We passed by Buckingham Palace, but I was too tired and soaked to care.  I just gazed at it dumbly as we went further down the road.  Finally, we entered a pub where I had some pretty good pesto and chicken pasta.  When we made it back to our hotel, Amber begged for us to go down to the pub below us so she could have some Guinness.  Later when we went to bed we found we were now sharing the room with three men, two taking up the other bunks and one on the floor, snoring loudly.  The noises of the street below our window kept me awake for an hour before I was able to fall asleep.

*Looking back, I am especially annoyed at how this hostel was run.  When we made our reservations, we requested single-sex dorms, and to come back to a small dark room with two dudes sleeping in the other empty bunk bed and two more sleeping on the floor.  The room was supposed to house only four people.  As you will see with the next day’s entry, our situation became even more preposterous.

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