Since today was our last morning in New Orleans, we got dressed up and had brunch at Brennan's. We had reservations since it's Easter weekend, but the restaurant was not as busy as the staff predict it will be on Sunday.
I started with their excellent Brandy Milk Punch that had wonderful freshly-grated nutmeg on top. For our meals, Hans ordered the Spicy Omelette ("our eggs are cooked in a sophisticated manner") and I had the Eggs Nouvelle Orleans ("poached eggs served on a bed of lump [blue] crabmeat topped with a brandy-cream sauce"). To finish, Hans had an Irish coffee, served in possibly the tallest cocktail glass imaginable, and we shared the Bananas Foster (they're the originators). I daren't say how ridiculously expensive our breakfast was, but it was well worth it and very enjoyable. But we both agreed that we probably won't spend that much on a morning meal ever again.
Outside the Louisiana Supreme Court Building
Behind St. Louis Cathedral
After checking out of the hotel, we drove westward out of the city to the Great River Road in order to get to the first plantation we wanted to see: San Francisco. I chose this one because it was supposed to stand out among the other famous plantation homes with its Gothic-influenced design. As we approached the site, however, we were blocked by emergency vehicles that had responded to an auto accident. So, even though we were within 100 feet of the parking lot, we had to drive 20 minutes in a circle around farmland and refineries in order to approach the plantation from the opposite direction. Unfortunately, San Francisco plantation was not as interesting as we thought it would be. The admission cost was $15, and the grounds had limited access. We knew we were already going to pay at least $12 for admission to Oak Alley, so we just looked at the manor home, took a few pictures, and went on our way.
Oak Alley was much more impressive. I suppose that is why so many people visit. That, and the line of 28 300-year-old oak trees are what most people identify with when they think of plantations, thanks to the movies. The grounds were more extensive than at San Francisco, and the multitude of azaleas that are featured in most of the landscaping were in full bloom. Their bright colors in the shade of the huge oaks made for some unique photo ops.
The tour of the manor home was interesting. The house, for as large as it is, has only nine rooms. The building seems larger than that because of the tall ceilings for ventilation during the hot summer months and the large spaces for hosting large parties.
However, Hans and I both felt that as admirable as the building and grounds are, one still can't forget the slave labor that went into building and running these plantations, and it would have been more interesting to hear information about the slaves and how they lived.
In any case, we strolled along the old oak alley path under the large and sprawling branches. It was a slightly humid day, but the breeze off the river felt good.
When we were done visiting the plantation, we began our long drive home. To make things interesting, we headed first through Baton Rouge (with some of the craziest drivers I've ever seen) and then to Natchez, Mississippi in order to drive part of the Natchez Trace Parkway, a scenic and historic road that goes all the way up to Tennessee. Hans took over the drive from there, and we quietly observed the sunset through the canopy as we drove to the outskirt of Jackson. Along the way we saw a turkey, and later a squirrel and crow chasing each other on a hill next to the road.
We continued up I-55 after a quick stop for dinner and ended our evening in Grenada. We're both fairly tired from a long day in the car, but tomorrow we only have to drive another four hours to get home.
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