Philadelphia Part II

In the morning we parked in the $5 lot at 15th and Vine and walked in the sub-freezing weather (wind chill not included) toward the Old City.  We stopped briefly to glance up at the impressive yet forbiddingly claustrophobic City Hall, but with the bitter wind gusts at our backs we did not linger.  Upon arriving at the National Park Service site which includes Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell, we were pleasantly surprised to find an interpretive exhibit which literally outlined the site of "The President's House" which served as the "White House" from 1790 to 1800 when Philadelphia was the nation's capital.  When George Washington lived there, he brought some of his slaves with him, which was fairly scandalous even in those days given that Pennsylvania was a strongly anti-slave state.  In addition to the above ground exhibit, you can look into a glass enclosure which preserves an archeological excavation of the site and see the building's foundation.

We took a break from the cold and entered the next exhibit which houses the Liberty Bell.  I knew it resides in a glass building but I was pleased that one can still get fairly close to the bell without having to view it through Plexiglas.  Standing before a shallow metal rail puts you less than five feet away, from where you can ogle the colossal 2080-pound beast.  Even early in the morning on a Sunday, the crowd was substantial.

Commissioned in 1752 to be housed in the new bell tower of Independence Hall (then known as the Pennsylvania State House), the original bell, made in London, cracked almost the very second it was tested upon arrival in America.  A couple of inexperienced American bell makers re-cast it using the original materials, and it was installed successfully.  By 1846 a small thin crack had begun to affect the bell's sound.  It was repaired soon after and was rung once more for George Washington's birthday.  On that day, the crack spread fatally and ruined the bell's sound forever.

After, we joined a quick (free) tour of Independence Hall.  Sadly, I was unable to snap a photo since the bell tower is undergoing preservation.  The hall itself is a fairly modest building.  It holds a small courtroom where the Pennsylvania Supreme Court resided and a beautifully-restored assembly hall where the Second Continental Congress met and the Declaration of Independence was adopted.  Only one piece of furniture is original, and it is the famous "rising-sun" chair used by Washington during the Constitutional Convention.

Up a rather tall staircase is a long hall for gatherings and entertainment.  While the space is very bare (probably to accommodate the large number of tourists during the high season) there are some very interesting historic maps, including one featuring Boston when it was practically a mere island in the Massachusetts Bay.

We strolled through the rest of the park, past the Second Bank of the United States, and visited Carpenter's Hall, probably a lesser-known site, and home of the nation's oldest still-existing trade guild.  Carpenter's Hall was the meeting place of the first Continental Congress in 1774.  After independence was gained, the building was also the site of several banks, and fell victim to the country's first bank robbery.  The amount stolen was over a staggering $160,000 (worth millions today).

We had lunch at the old City Tavern.  The portions (and prices) were more dinner fare, but the meal itself was wonderful.  The quiet house that holds the restaurant is run by staff dressed in 18th-century clothing and the menu is filled with items made from old American recipes.  The beef pie I had came with a heavenly brown gravy which was thick and syrupy.  We shared their impressive sampler of beers by Yards, a local brewery.  The particular brews we had are exclusive for the Tavern, which is extremely tragic given the excellent aromas and deep flavors.  One standout is based off a recipe of Benjamin Franklin's.

After walking a few calories away, we headed for Elfreth's Alley, one of the oldest continuously inhabited streets in the country.  The narrow lane was a Christmas postcard of lights and ribbons, even though it is nearly a month past the holiday season.  Once a year, in June, many of the private residences open their doors for public showing.  I may have to make another trip just for the occasion.

 As the afternoon came to a close, we made our long way back to the car, stopping briefly to place a penny on the grave of Benjamin Franklin.