Blog Post #200: Richmond

Before I get started, I'd like to recognize that this is the 200th blog post for Snapshots Abroad!

We spent a quiet weekend in Richmond, Virginia after a couple of snowy and cold days.  During the 2-hour drive down we encountered a little nasty weather.  When we arrived it was a blustery and rainy afternoon.  Our first stop was at the state capitol building, designed by Thomas Jefferson to look like a classical Roman temple.  In the past it had a commanding view of the James River, but modern tall buildings along the river have almost completely obscured its vantage.  The capitol building boasts a two-story rotunda, though the dome is interior.  The visitor's entrance was cleverly built into the hill on which the capitol sits.  Hans and I were lucky enough to enjoy a nearly-private tour of the building (along with only one other person).

 The Old Senate Chamber, which served as the site of The Confederate Congress during the civil war and is also where Robert E. Lee took command of the Virginia State forces.  The Bill of Rights was ratified into the U.S. Constitution in this room.  The golden mace in the display case is carried by the sergeant-at-arms for the House of Delegates to the House chamber for each session.

Inside the rotunda is a marble statue of George Washington by Jean-Antoine Houdon, and is the only statue for which Washington had his measurements taken.

The House of Delegates, which served as the U.S. House of Representatives for the movie Lincoln.  Exterior shot of capitol building.

Later that afternoon we went to the Museum of the Confederacy and bought tour tickets for the White House of the Confederacy, otherwise known as Jefferson Davis' former executive mansion.  Restored to its wartime appearance, the building is certainly a testament to the Confederate Memorial Literary Society (started by Richmond society ladies) and their tenacious hunting down of original furnishings and collectibles, all of which had been auctioned at one time.  The reproduction draperies and wallpapers give a very rich idea of the grand neoclassical appearance the house once had.  I wanted to steal the upholstered medallion sofa so badly!

That night we had dinner at Capital Ale House, which had a pretty great beer menu...but the food was okay....we still enjoyed ourselves and I appreciated sipping on some local wine after being out in the cold during the day.

The next morning (and after a wonderful brunch at Millie's Diner), we spent some time along the canals by the James River.  We could see the suspended pedestrian bridge that runs under one of the highway crossings.  We walked upriver to check out Hollywood Cemetery, est. 1847.  It holds the remains of many Confederate Civil War soldiers, officers, and leaders (Jefferson Davis, JEB Stuart), James Monroe (our fifth president), and John Tyler (our tenth president).

 Pyramid memorial to confederate soldiers.  Many of the original numbered soldier grave markers remain, and many have been replaced with new and inscribed markers, donated by descendants.

View of downtown from the pedestrian bridge.  Pilings of former bridges that were destroyed by retreating Confederate troops still remain in the river.

 The bridge, and a woman with interestingly-decorated dogs.

 Artifacts at the Tredegar Iron Works site (the only iron works held by the Confederacy during the war)

Rusting copper cupolas from the old Virginia State Penitentiary

After taking a break back at the hotel we drove 30 minutes south to Petersburg, the site of one of the most strategically-important hold-points for the Confederacy.  Grant extended his line wider and wider over the course of nine months in order to spread Lee's army thin enough for the Union to break through.  Many of the forts that dotted the area led to battles that were examples of early trench warfare (see World War I).

 Recreated fort defenses at a confederate battery, canon at Fort Steadman (where the Union suffered the greatest losses in one single action of the civil war)

 The crater where Union troops detonated a mine under a confederate battery and then failed miserably in following attacks (remember the first scene in the movie Cold Mountain?  Look it up on YouTube).  Also pictured, entrance to the tunnel that was dug for incendiary purposes.

The next morning we drove back to Maryland, but not until I had a chance to check out the stained glass windows at St. Paul's Episcopal Church, all produced by Tiffany Studios over a hundred years ago.  The exquisite art really was beautiful.  Richmond's love for its Confederate leaders is apparent, with many windows dedicated to Robert E. Lee (who was also part of the congregation).

 

 Frontal view of capitol building

 St. John's Church (built in 1741), where Patrick Henry gave the famous 

"Give me liberty or give me death!" speech

Our final stop, half-way home, was at the National Museum of the Marine Corps, which is right outside Quantico, Virginia.  I can't recommend this museum enough.  I would say that it easily rivals any of the Smithsonian museums in DC.  Even if you're not a "war buff", there's plenty of interesting exhibits and readings that go all the way back to the American Revolution.

I don't have any pictures, which is why I have a link above.  One of the artifacts that stood out to me the most was the actual flag that was raised after the Battle for Iowa Jima.

I have back-dated this post, so I apologize for the lateness of this update.  In less than 24 hours I will be live-bombarding the website with photos from France!