France: Viviers to Tournon

Since this was the mid-way point of the trip, I was very grateful for an easy itinerary today.  Our program guide asked us to be ready for a walking tour by 8:45 (a little earlier than usual).  When Maury and I awoke it was to a clear sunny morning.  There were beautiful swans gliding on the river outside our windows.

Viviers sits in the southern Ardeche region, which enjoys a Mediterranean climate.  Its Cathedral of St. Vincent (consecrated 1119) has a combination of Romanesque and Gothic features.  Historically, Viviers has been a weathly town because of its important religions and commercial past.  The Lafarge Cements Works (started in 1833) is there, so the town has been able to preserve its historic buildings, most having been built the middle ages.

Today the town is still remarkably small with a population of 3,700.  Dominique took us on a short walking tour and allowed us a little free time to stroll through the narrow streets.  Not many shops were open but no one really minded because the quiet streets were so pleasant.

I walked through one narrow neighborhood where all the front doors were fairly large.  The street had formerly been a merchant district, so the store fronts were on the ground level and living quarters upstairs, a necessity during floods.

Next, we boarded the ship.  We had many miles of river and several locks to pass through today, so most of the day's activities were on board.  It was a rather quiet day and a relaxing one too.  To pass the time Dominique gave a short presentation on the Herbes de Provence

Late in the evening we made a stop in the town of Tournon.  Up until the 15th century the townspeople lived in a small fortress above the river.  Now, there are narrow streets and rows of buildings crammed against a line of mountains that run along the water.  This was to be the place where our tour group would be broken into smaller groups and go to a home-hosted meal.  In short terms, due to French government bureaucratic interfering, we were not going to be allowed to do this.  In stead, the local towns people met us at the boat and we all went to a town restaurant that started as a convent and then was a post office for a short time.

At our table we sat with Gerard and Olline.  They run a bed and breakfast in town (though they are in the process of moving) and really were just the nicest people.  Olline was not afraid to share her political views so at times we had a rather serious conversation at the table.  The meal we were all served was pretty unbelievable.  The starter was a pork and spinach pate with an onion marmalade.  The main course was coq au vin.  I haven't seen a darker sauce since eating mole.  The desert was a nice tart tatin followed by espresso (which turned out to be a bad idea for me to drink).  It was all wonderful.  We did not return to the ship until about 11 pm, so Maury and I were pretty exhausted.  I deliriously changed into my pajamas and was asleep instantly.

 Dominique, explaining Viviers' coat of arms, the main street and it's neat line of sycamores

 The entrance to St. Vincent's, view of the town

Looking toward the Rhone.  In the upper left-ish you can see a nuclear power plant,

some French are very against and some see them as the way of the future 

 Inside St. Vincent's, and yet another pretty French avenue

This Renaissance facade is beautifully restored, however the man responsible for originally building it

was a city tax collector and probably funded the embellishments with embezzled money 

Going through a lock.  Not bad, eh?

Previously in Arles I went to the local Monoprix (it's like their Target)

and bought some rose du Provence and some calisson.  They are a treat

you can only buy in Provence.  They are almond-shaped almond and citrus flavored cookies

with a little light icing.  They're very nice!

 Cooking lesson of the day with Chef David (the ship's creator of all our wonderful meals).

He made Crepes Suzette, and wanted volunteers for crepe flipping.

I was able to successfully flip mine in the air!  I look completely terrified in the picture;

I guess my nervousness was a little obvious....

 The galley, where all the magic happens