9/8/24

Germany: Ancient Trier


This post is photo-heavy so to spare the reader I'm keeping the facts short and sweet.

The drive down to Germany's oldest city, Trier, was uneventful.  Hans snagged a parking spot in a parking garage conveniently one block from one of the central ancient landmarks, the Porta Nigra.

The "Black Gate" is the only surviving ancient Roman gate out of four that originally circled the city.  The foundations were laid in 170 AD and the structure was built without mortar, so the sandstone blocks are held together with iron pegs.  The theory behind its enuring presence is that at one point it was turned into a church.  However, Napoleon "destroyed" it, which left the Roman structure relatively intact.  Visitors can pay an entrance fee to climb the three floors inside but Hans and I enjoyed it from street level.



One narrow street away from the main city market square is a very large peculiar building that dominates the view.  The High Cathedral of St. Peter is an amalgam of many different architectural styles and incredibly ornate interior monuments.  The cathedral site has been occupied by a place of worship since St. Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine, originally deeded the site for a church.  Construction began in 326 AD.

 

 

Next door to the cathedral on the right is the Church of Our Lady in Trier

 

On the right is one of the coolest pipe organs I've ever seen.  The style is called "swallow's nest".

 

 

 

 

 

 This archbishop's memorial is the most metal ever.

 

 The beautiful Gothic cloisters were added in 1245 and connect the cathedral and church.

 



Exterior and interior of the Gothic church below


Not too far away from the marketplace center is an ancient Roman amphitheater.  It once had seating for 25,000 spectators and served as both an entrance to the city and entertainment venue.  What was cool about this site was that it was free to visit and also the underground was open for exploration.



The town marketsquare is a welcoming place to hang out and play "Eye Spy".  The Renaissance fountain and surrounding buildings are covered in local symbolism (including a knight staring down the Cathedral with his sword drawn), a local-wine kiosk where everyone likes to gather, and Germany's oldest cross, given to the town by King Otto the Great in 958 AD.  I hand an afternoon pick-me-up at the kiosk while Hans did some wandering.  Later I stopped at a food stand for a currywurst and later Hans got a sausage.

The basilica is a 200 foot long and 100 foot high building.  It is the largest intact Roman structure outside of Rome!  Over the centuries it has undergone many periods of destruction and reconstruction.  The front alcove with the altar is the oldest original part of the building.  A few days before our visit a new art exhibit had been opened, featuring both grim and hopeful depictions of an apocolyptic world (artist Thomas Baumgartel).



It was turning out to be a beautiful afternoon in Trier.  Our final stop was at a highly recommended wine bar that was a stone's throw from the Porta Nigra.  We each enjoyed another glass of quality German grape juice.

 

Our day was capped by a very satisfying dinner in Cochem.  We walked across the river to the Hotel Hieronimi and had a very nice meal on their riverfront terrace with a view of the iconic castle.


One of my favorite things about this part of the world is the WINE VENDING MACHINES!

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