1/9/08

The Move to Missouri: Cape Girardeau

Distance: 349 miles
Mileage Total: About 4100

Holy crap.  We made it.  And I mean, just made it. 

I think we pulled into the drive of our building at 4:00 pm.  I literally had to dump Hans and the trailer after unlocking the apartment and race over to campus.  Of course there was a hold placed on my account due to the overdue fees, so I had to plead with registration to remove it before I was allowed to drop that class.

When all was said and done, I was nearly kicked out of school over 50 cents worth of overdue library book fees.

But we made it.

School starts again on Monday.

1/8/08

The Move to Missouri: Kansas City

Distance: 364 miles

This morning Hans was feeling ill, so I called the front desk of the motel and asked how late we could check out since I had to take the car to a repair shop.  They aren’t exactly busy during this time of year, so the concierge said as long as we were checked out by 2 pm she didn’t care.  This made things a lot easier.  We unhooked the trailer and I left Hans to recover in the room while I drove across town.

Needless to say, our patience with the Passport is about expended.  Luckily, the diagnosis was not as dire as we thought it might be:  Another leak in the vacuum line (requiring a new hose) and the air filter was completely clogged.  I picked up Hans and the trailer a few hours later and we set off for as far as we felt like driving, which turned out to be Kansas City.  In rush-hour traffic.  Once we’d settled into the LAST motel of this adventure, my mom surprised me with some urgent news.  She told me that my graduate advisor had called and needed to talk to me as soon as possible.  So, I called him on his cell.

It turns out that the university has been trying to contact me for the last week or so via email (which I’ve been unable to check).  They claim they sent me a letter, which I know is a load of BS.  Anyway, their reason for wanting to contact me was thus:  I forgot to drop an undergraduate class I’d originally thought about taking this spring.  My assistantship covers my graduate tuition, so I have to pay for any undergrad tuition out of pocket.  I figured I’d drop the class once I got back to Cape Girardeau, but apparently SEMO requires tuition payment in full well before the semester even begins, so now I’ve defaulted on payment on a class I plan to drop anyway.

So, in the mean time my advisor received a message from the university that was to the effect that if I do not drop the class or pay for it by 5 pm tomorrow, I will be automatically dropped from my graduate program and lose my assistantship. 

Awesome.

I totally need more stress in my life.

My advisor has offered to go to campus and pay for it himself in case Hans and I don’t make it back to town in time, but I don’t think that will be a problem.  As long as our car doesn’t break down again.

1/7/08

The Move to Missouri: Sioux Falls

Distance: 433 miles

This morning began precariously as there are reports of scattered ice storms for the Dakotas.  As it turned out, the roads were fine and we drove through about 30 seconds of rain.

However, we were nearly to Redfield, SD when the engine began to make unsettling choking sounds.  We pulled into a mechanic’s in town, but they told us to turn around and try a place in Aberdeen.  Forty miles later, we stopped at another shop.  Upon inspecting the engine, they told us that the patch job we’d had done in Tok had disintegrated and been sucked up into the vacuum line.

They were able to fix it, but they had to go across town to buy a new part, so they recommended we go get some lunch and come back.  The people who worked there suggested we walk up the road a ways to Scotty’s Drive-In, where we had some very tasty burgers.  Once a new gasket had been affixed, we continued to Sioux Falls, where unfortunately, the car began to stutter again.

I spent the evening digging through the phone book and found a place that was willing to work on our car, but we’d have to wait until the next morning.

1/6/08

The Move to Missouri: Bismarck

Distance: 544 miles

The original plan was to continue south into Wyoming and then turn east, but the cross winds have made us decide to head to North Dakota until the winds are weaker and then go south.

This morning’s drive was fairly quiet as we wound between farms and small canyons to avoid the highway.  We rarely encountered another vehicle, and the expanse of dreary, lonely sky was exquisite.  Even the cows were eerily absent at times.


Once we entered North Dakota the scenery shifted dramatically as we drove past the badlands.  The strange dried riverbed was so beloved by Theodore Roosevelt that he was inspired to pursue conservation and now it holds a national park named after him.


After a fairly uneventful day we stopped in Bismarck.

1/5/08

The Move to Missouri: Great Falls

Distance: 409 miles

Hans grumbled quite a lot as he navigated through traffic in Calgary.  The rest of Alberta was fairly flat and boring.  However, the severe weather that was slamming the west coast brought 30-mph cross winds that blew our trailer all over the place.

Calgary Skyline

Meteorological turmoil kept at bay by the mountains

After crossing the border we made for Great Falls, Montana.  We checked into a chain establishment that had some kind of event going on, and the noise carried over to the hotel restaurant.  I became ill during dinner and had to lie down for the rest of the evening.

1/4/08

The Move to Missouri: Red Deer

Distance: 505 miles

The highway took us through some slightly hilly terrain before flattening out for the last of the Alaska Highway.  We made an unceremonious stop at Dawson Creek, the official start of the highway.  Hans did not care to take a picture but I felt like we should since we’d suffered so much just to get to this point.


Back in car it wasn’t long before we entered Alberta.  From here the roads were perfectly un-mountainous and snow-free.

We were hungry when we stopped for gas in Grande Prairie, so we ate at Humpty’s , a greasy spoon sort of establishment that was recommended by a local I spoke with. 

The rest of the day was spent bearing southeast, skirting Edmonton, to finally come to rest in Red Deer. 

Tomorrow we shall return to America.

1/3/08

The Move to Missouri: Ft. St. John

Distance: 555 miles

This has been the first day since leaving Anchorage that we’ve been able to drive from morning til night, so we covered quite a bit more ground.

The Milepost Guide warned us to watch for bison in British Columbia, so once we crossed the border I kept my eyes peeled for critters that might leap out of the darkness and into the path of our headlights.  As dawn began we could see that we were in a deep valley of mountains and foothills.  The snowdrifts were deep and soon we were able to make out the shapes of dozens of sleepy bison on either side of the highway!  They were all huddled together and some of the males were standing guard nearby.  It was an awesome sight.  I wish I’d had the wits to pull over and take a few pictures.  These thousand-pound beasts are known to charge vehicles during mating season but early on this cold winter morning they weren’t very lively.

Several hundred miles later we reached the highest elevation of the highway at Summit Lake (4250 feet) and began to wind our way out of the mountains and at one point the hills opened and we could suddenly see that we were descending a large plateau to a great plain on the edge of the Rocky Mountains.  We stopped in Ft. Nelson for dinner, but since there was another hour of daylight we decided to drive another three hours to Ft. St. John.

Near Summit Lake

One of the many grated bridges that tried to destroy our hitch

Leaving the Rockies

Those last few hours were a little difficult for me.  We were passed by many semis going in both directions and each time our car was plastered with mud.  The Passport got so dirty that several times we had to stop and wash the headlights in order to be able to see the road.  At the end of our drive snow was falling so thickly I had to close my eyes when Hans drove so that I would not freak him out with my anxiety.  By the time we got to our stop for the evening (The BlueBell Motel) I was in a foul mood and I was quite horrible toward Hans.  All I wanted was to take a shower and go to bed.

1/2/08

The Move to Missouri: Watson Lake

Distance: 272 miles

Jason called this morning to say all they had to do was fit on a new cylinder and timing belt.  He could not figure out what was wrong with the four-wheel drive, but suspected that during the engage/disengage process there was something seriously wrong with the engine.  He figured that as long as we stayed in two-wheel drive for the rest of our journey we should be fine.  They even straightened our trailer’s stand for free (it had been bent by a pothole when Hans dad forgot to lift it out of the way before driving).

Total tow and repair bill: Just under $800.  We’ll get most of that back from our insurance (and that, kids, is why it pays to have full coverage).  Jason sent someone to pick us up from the motel and by the time we’d stopped for lunch on our way out of town it was noon.

We drove until a few hours after dark and stopped in Watson Lake at the illustrious Belvedere Motor Hotel.  Watson Lake is a famous road stop on the Alaska Highway that features a “signpost forest”.  We weren’t going to be in Watson Lake during daylight hours so we passed the tourist attraction.

The weather reports on TV sat that the west coast is being slammed by hurricane-force gales and blizzards.  There is a possibility of being caught in some of the weather as we make our way south but we’re going to have to make a push for it.

1/1/08

The Move to Missouri: Whitehorse

Distance: 97 miles

What a disaster.

We had a fairly sleepless night.  We could hear our neighbor’s radio blaring through the wall, which failed to drown out the sound of their…er…relations.  At about 4:30 in the morning, they finally stopped, at which point we gave up and got out of bed since the alarm was set for 5:00.

We let the car warm up for a while since it was –20 F this morning.  After filling up with gas, we headed down the highway.  Not even half a mile later, the engine began to make very strained whirring noises.  This was followed by the horrifying sight of smoke billowing from under the hood.  Hans pulled over and the engine died and would not re-start.  I was in the process of setting up our LED road flares so we could walk back to town.  Hans managed to finally start the car.  Very carefully, with the engine sounding even worse, we turned around and limped back to town.

We parked in the lot of another motel and went inside their deserted lobby to figure out what to do next.  The subsequent three hours were extremely grim.  It was about 6 am, and there was no chance of getting help before the locals crawled out of bed, post-holiday-celebration. 

We began to consider calling Hans’ dad to pick us up and tow us back to Anchorage.  We began to consider selling the Passport, but what kind of laws are there to import a Canadian vehicle into the U.S.?  Could we put our trailer on a barge and fly to Seattle, buy a new car, and then drive to Missouri?  Should we scrap the whole move altogether?

Hans tried to start up the car so as to move it out of the middle of the parking lot.  This time, there was a loud bang and snap.  The serpentine belt had completely shredded. 

As we sat in the quiet motel lobby I flipped through the phone book and found three local mechanics listed.  There was a Honda-certified shop in Whitehorse, but that was 100 miles away.  After failed attempts to call the local mechanics I called the place in Whitehorse (it also offered towing services).  A man named Jason answered and I explained the situation to him.  He told me that he’d be able to help us out but that it would take about two hours for him to get to Haines Junction and that the towing fee would be $500.  I swallowed.  Then he suggested that I wait for the local businesses to open before we jump to gun and spend more money than necessary. 

By now it was 9 am and the motel restaurant was going to be open in an hour.  We decided to follow Jason’s advice and wait.

At ten the monotony was broken when a tall, aging man arrived and opened the restaurant, soon followed by a few early customers.  Hans and I sat down dejectedly.  Suddenly we realized we were ravenous.  The gentleman who had opened the place introduced himself as Richard, and after taking our orders as well as those of the other customers, he set about cooking everyone’s meals himself.  Apparently he was the only one working today.  Once he had served everyone’s food he settled himself at the table opposite ours, lit up a cigarette, and asked where we were from.  We exchanged stories about living in harsh sub-zero winters and he told us funny tales about his dog mushing escapades and hapless tourist encounters, punctuated often with an exclamation of “ho-ly shit!” in a thick Yukon accent, “eh?”

Eventually we got around to our tale of woe from this morning and told him about Jason’s suggestion.  Richard advised us to call for a tow to Whitehorse anyway, because of the three local mechanics one was out of town, one had a very sick mother whom he was attending, and the other was completely incompetent and untrustworthy.  At these words I consulted my auto insurance pamphlet and saw that I should be reimbursed for towing fees, as well as some of the repairs in the event of a “catastrophic engine failure”.  Just to be sure I called my insurance agent in Anchorage.  After I told him that it was going to be $500 he said “just mail us the receipts later.”

Elated to have some good news, I called Whitehorse and asked to be picked up.  By now it was noon, so we spent the next few hours chatting with Richard, who we thanked endlessly for his help.

It was nearly three in the afternoon when the tow truck arrived, a semi with a large flat bed that the Passport was rolled onto after unhitching our trailer.  With the trailer attached to the tow truck, we climbed into the cab with Jason, who’d made the trip with his wife and two kids in tow (pun intended).  After a very long and stressful morning, Hans and I both nodded off during the 100-mile drive.  When we arrived in Whitehorse Jason dropped us off at the Yukon Inn and told us he’d call in the morning once his mechanics had inspected our vehicle.

After checking in and taking a few minutes to collect our thoughts, we each called our respective families to let them know what had happened.  Next, the only thing left to do was find a place for dinner and try not to be upset about our uncertain future.

We could see across town from our motel room window and it looked like the only places open were a McDonalds across the street at a Boston Pizza about a quarter mile away.  We sure as heck weren’t interested in fast food but it was 20 below zero.  We bundled up and walked along the quiet streets to the pizza place.  Our meal wasn’t spectacular but we were thankful for a hot meal and a sense that things might improve tomorrow.  On the walk aback to the motel I could not help but laugh at Hans as he slipped and fell so violently that the top button of his pants burst and flew into a snow bank, never to be seen again.  Poor Hans.  He laughed as well but it did look painful.

The rest of the evening was spent watching TV to take our minds off our predicament.