9/23/09

Scotland: More Castles



The day went at a slightly slower pace but the hours were still fairly busy. After filling the Vauxhall tank with petrol we headed for the eastern banks of Loch Awe, on the edge of the area in Scotland known as the Trossachs. We were looking for Kilchurn Castle, another ruin but with more accessible areas than Dunollie. I was glad that I looked it up on the internet last night for information on how to get there because there were no signs whatsoever. We happened to notice a small road that looked as if it went toward the spit that sticks out into the lake. Luckily, it was the correct place to go and after walking out a ways, we found the castle. Except for a 15-minute period where a small tour group stopped by, we had the entire place to ourselves! It was another blustery and chilly day, but it was fun to have the run of a whole castle for a few hours. Right as we left it began to rain more steadily, so our timing so far seemed to be lucky.

(Link dead, work in progress)

Path to the castle

Barracks and other ruined parts 

Main living quarters 

 Views of the eastern mountains and Loch Awe to the north


 Fallen tower top in the middle of the yard (loosed by a violent storm)

Next, we headed southeast for Doune Castle. Hans opted for the audioguide tour while I dashed about with the camera. Since Hans took the tour, I’ll now turn this post over to him:


(Coconut sounds) The audio guide greeted me with Terry Jones’s soothing voice, assuring me that everything would not be silly despite his previous reputation. Doune Castle was used in Monty Python’s Holy Grail as the French Taunter’s Castle, Swamp castle and the Castle Anthrax. Doune was shot at from many different angles to create the multiple castles in the movie, every castle except Arrgghh, which we visited earlier.

Despite the modern day silliness associated with it, Doune had very serious beginnings. It was built by Robert Stewart, the Duke of Albany, the Second Son of King Robert II of Scotland, and Governor of Scotland for his father, brother (Robert III), and nephew James I, until his death in 1420 at the age of 80. He was the power behind the throne for so long that he was given the title “Scotland’s Uncrowned King” by history. Doune was to be his lordly residence for himself and his duchess. He had every intention of becoming king one day, so he would build his home accordingly. Doune has the interesting distinction of being one of the few castles that are unmodified from their original construction. Therefore Doune gives an interesting view of what the life of a late 14th century Lord would have been like.

The Duke never got to finish his lordly residence, as we can tell from several odd features in the castle: The south walls have four window openings in them, which as anyone who builds castles can tell you is not a good idea. Since there is no one who builds castles any more you will have to trust me on this. The Duke probably intended to have another building built within the walls. The additional building would have most likely been an even grander series of apartments for the Duke and his family, as the current Dukes and Duchess’ chambers (in the gatehouse tower) were rather small. The duchess also had to suffer the indignity of going to the bathroom in the hallway since her bed chamber was not en-suite.

As Dani was charging about taking pictures of everything in sight I took a slower pace, taking in the grounds and structures while Terry Jones kept me company. We spent a good two and a half hours in the castle trying to explore every room we could get into. The east wall, which was used for the French Taunter scene, was closed off for reinforcement reconstruction. So I didn’t get to call anyone an Animal Food Trough Wiper. However we did make it to the roof of the gatehouse tower which is a good 100ft off the ground. And now I will return this post to Dani.





 Monty Python fans should recognize some of the castle's features



One of the inner chambers and spooky shadows in one of the basement rooms

 Views of the village from the roof

The roof and battlements (check out those crazy stairs on the roof and indoors!)


But, father! I don't want to marry. I just want to....sing...!

We waved goodbye to Swamp-Camelot-Anthrax and finished the day in Stirling. Getting to the hostel was a little tricky. We went through a seemingly-endless sequence of roundabouts and took the wrong exit at one but Hans’ navigation skills got us to our destination just fine. The hostel happened to be down the street from Stirling Castle in the middle of the old medieval town site, so we went for a walk to the nearby Church of the Holy Rude, a nice vantage point next to the castle. Hans wanted to see the Old Stirling Bridge, so we walked down the old town hill toward the river Forth. Along the way we went through a park and crossed paths with a falconer, his bird perched clumsily on his glove as he huffed up the hill. When we came to the bridge I took a few pictures and we sat on a bench at the nearby park. I wanted to start eliminating our residual groceries, so we picked up a few simple ingredients for a meal and then went back to the hostel. Everything Pasta for dinner!  It was not long after eating that we both fell asleep with our room lights on.




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