9/22/09

Scotland: Oban


Today began with a lazy start: We got up at six but did not roll out the door until eight. We began the day by driving the same route we took to get to the Isle of Skye but this time we continued on to the end of Loch Ness. It was raining off and on throughout the day so we only made one stop on our way to the seaside town of Oban. We stopped briefly at Castle Stalker (Otherwise known as "Aaarrgh", for you Monty Python buffs).

The Castle of Aaarrgh....now a private residence

After a total of three hours driving, we came to Oban. The town is situated on a naturally-formed harbor in the middle of the west highlands. Ever since the Oban whisky distillery’s establishment over 200 years ago the town has been a popular holiday location and also a busy ferry port for access to the inner Hebrides Islands.

The first thing we did was find the youth hostel, a Victorian home like the one in Pitlochry but larger and right smack on the edge of the sea. The dining room had a large bay window with a puffy couch pulled up to it where one could watch the weather roll in as the ferries went by. We parked in the lot and walked a short ways to Dunollie Castle, one of the ancient houses of the old lords of Lorn. It once housed the Stone of Scone to keep it from the Vikings. It is in ruins now and one has to scale a small hill that wraps around the building, but the views of the bay are excellent. We took many pictures once the skies cleared and then walked back to town.

The youth hostel is the building on the far left, Dunollie Castle from Afar






Our light breakfast had since been burned up by the long drive and walking around, so we stopped for lunch at a fish and chips place. We spent the afternoon wandering the streets and looking at the shops. We noticed that many of the souvenir shops had very eclectic selections of Made in China knick knacks along with a small selection of sex toys. It was very odd. We visited McCaig’s tower, a monument commissioned by its namesake to be a museum in the shape of the Roman Colosseum but eventually he ran out of money and only the outer walls were completed.

 Views of Oban

The very very silly rich-guy monument

The highlight of our day was probably the tour of the whisky distillery. They are obviously very proud of their product and we were shown the unique distilling methods they utilize. The mashing and fermenting is done very slowly. We happened to be there while the heart spirit was condensing off the distillation apparatus and we were given a sample of 13-year-old whisky right out of the cask. At the end of the tour we were given a sample of their final product (14 year single malt whisky) as well as an etched glass. Very excellent. The four aromas to be noted are smoke, citrus, honey, and sea salt, none of which are added to the spirit (they all arise from the distillation methods and barley growing conditions). I have discovered that I rather like whiskies with a salty essence. There’s an Irish one that I like with similar properties. When we finished our shopping we walked by a canal that was bustling with at least two dozen ducks frolicking in the water and making a lot of ruckus. As I stopped to watch them a tiny woman at least 80 years old caught my arm excitedly and told me that almost every day she stops at the nearby grocery and buys a cheap loaf of bread to feed them. She laughed and said they must know it's dinner time since they were making so much noise!

We finished the day early at the hostel where we fixed a light meal of Spicy Meat Fiesta Frozen Pizza and had more of the Black Isle beers we purchased yesterday. Also, we sampled the handmade Oban chocolates we had purchased earlier this afternoon. One of the truffles was filled with an inventive lemon-gin ganache that was very lovely. I think Hans’ favorite was the one filled with banana crème.

The gray sea became flecked with pale gold as cold rain spattered the glass during the sunset. I told Hans a few days ago that I was in danger of falling in love with Scotland but I think even then it was too late. It is definitely on the list of places I would not mind living in. I would happily switch to wearing woolen skirts and sweaters with tweed jackets, wrapped in a fluffy scarf. There’s good food and drink, great green mountains, excellent footpaths, and some of the warmest people you’ll ever meet. I am sad that we’re leaving at the end of the week, but like all good things…

The view from the dining room in Oban. Can I stay here forever?

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